Traditional Japanese textiles are rich in geometric patterns (文様 – mon’yō). At first glance, they may seem simple or repetitive... but in reality, each one is based on precise construction and tells a story.

With a little attention, these patterns become much more legible — and above all, much more interesting to look at. This is often where the perception changes, and a haori takes on a whole new dimension.

The main pattern families

To avoid getting lost, the simplest way is to group them by families. You'll see, once you understand this logic, everything becomes clearer.

Triangle and hexagon-based patterns

Asanoha (麻の葉) — Hemp leaf

A star pattern made of interlocking, very regular triangles. It was often used for children's clothing, as hemp grows quickly and straight. Even today, it conveys a very characteristic impression of solidity and balance.

Kikkō (亀甲) — Tortoise shell

A network of hexagons inspired by a tortoise shell. It is a pattern associated with longevity and stability. On some textiles, each hexagon contains an additional detail, which greatly enriches the overall design.

Kagome (籠目) — Basket weave

An openwork triangular pattern reminiscent of bamboo weaving. Its structure is more open than asanoha, which helps to differentiate them. It is often considered protective.

Uroko (鱗) — Scales

A pattern of repeated triangles, sometimes in superimposed layers. Inspired by scales, it is associated with protection and transformation. It is a very common pattern, often used discreetly.

Circular and wavy patterns

Seigaiha (青海波) — Ocean waves

Regular concentric arcs representing the sea. It is a very ancient pattern, associated with continuity and serenity. It works equally well as a background or as a main motif.

Shippō (七宝) — Interlocking circles

A pattern formed by intersecting circles representing 7 Buddhist treasures. It evokes harmony and lasting relationships. Visually, it is one of the softest and most balanced patterns.

Linear and directional patterns

Yagasuri (矢絣) — Arrows

A pattern inspired by arrow feathers. It gives direction to the eye and brings dynamism. Traditionally, it symbolizes a step forward with no turning back, which explains its popularity in certain contexts.

Tatewaku (立涌) — Rising steam

Vertical wavy lines evoking rising steam. The pattern is lively, never completely static, and often serves as a base for other compositions.

Yoroke-jima (よろけ縞) — Irregular stripes

Vertical stripes that are slightly distorted. They break the rigidity of straight lines and provide subtle movement, which is very pleasing to the eye.

Grid and repetition patterns

Ichimatsu (市松) — Checkerboard

A regular square pattern. Very graphic, it symbolizes continuity. Despite its age, it remains surprisingly modern in its appearance, and it's the pattern of Tanjirō's haori in Kimetsu no Yaiba!

Kōshi (格子) — Lattice

A grid pattern inspired by Japanese architecture. Simple in appearance, but with many variations. It brings a calm and orderly structure to the textile.

Hishi (菱) — Lozenges

A lozenge pattern, sometimes discreet, sometimes very prominent depending on the scale. It is often associated with ideas of growth or development.

Continuous patterns (tsunagi-mon)

These patterns are constructed in continuous lines. They require a little more attention, but become very legible once spotted.

Sayagata (紗綾形)

A pattern of continuous lines forming interlocking crosses. It evokes continuity and prosperity. Once you've recognized it once, you'll spot it everywhere.

Raimon (雷文)

An angular pattern in continuous lines, similar to a labyrinthine trace. It provides a strong graphic presence and is associated with energy.

Textural patterns (komon)

Here, it's almost more about texture than pattern.

Same-komon (鮫小紋)

A pattern composed of tiny, tightly packed dots inspired by shark or ray skin! From a distance, it appears solid. Up close, it reveals all its finesse. This is typically the kind of detail you discover by taking your time. We love it at Kogedo!

Kanoko (鹿の子)

Literally "fawn," it's a pattern of small, irregular dots inspired by shibori dyeing techniques. It brings a softer, more organic feel.

Conclusion

Recognizing these patterns is a bit like learning a new visual language.

At first, everything seems similar. Then, gradually, differences emerge. And once the eye gets used to it, every haori becomes much richer to observe.

At KOGEDO, that's exactly what we love: taking the time to look, understand, and let the details reveal themselves.

And which pattern do you prefer? 🦝

Coming soon

In the next article:
👉 Japanese floral patterns (and there are many of them 🌸)